Welcome to The Industry, a new column that explores the backstories of people working in San Francisco’s food and beverage sector. From farmers and purveyors to servers and sommeliers, chefs, chef-de-cuisines, and everyone in between, these interviews are a way to share the voices from the village it takes to put food on your plate.
La Cocina is a beloved San Francisco-based nonprofit that helps primarily low-income, immigrant women of color start food businesses by providing a shared commercial kitchen space. The tiny kitchen on Folsom Street in the Mission has helped launch the successful careers of many, including James Beard Award-nominated chefs Reem Assil of the Arab bakery Reem’s California and Nite Yun of Cambodian hotspot Lunette in the Ferry Building.
Countless other entrepreneurs and employees have passed through the kitchen, which celebrates its twenty-year anniversary this month. But there’s only one person who has been there since the beginning: Miguel Castro, the man who helped build the kitchen itself.
Castro immigrated from El Salvador to California in 1988, first to Los Angeles then eventually to Oakland, where he still resides today. He worked for a construction company that helped build the literal kitchen that is La Cocina. When the nonprofit opened its doors in 2005, they brought on Castro as its maintenance man and porter to help maintain the building.
Now at a sprightly 74, Castro is La Cocina’s longest-running employee. You can still find him in the kitchen, fixing equipment and helping out entrepreneurs when they need it. If you’ve ever had a taste of food from the various La Cocina vendors over the years, Castro has had a helping hand. I sat down with him to learn more about his work, his life, and his joys.
How has La Cocina changed, since you first started until now?
It’s changed a lot. Because at first there were just a couple businesses, I would come here for an hour to close. Then little by little they would give more hours. When more businesses became part of the program, they asked me to work more hours with them.
From then until now, I feel great because we have more employees. They’re all great to me. They give me advice on how to connect with the businesses. I try to make sure everyone feels welcomed here.
What’s the most difficult thing about the job?
At the moment? Not too much—it’s not too challenging. It’s great. I get here at 5:30am. I do my job, then I leave for home. Age hasn’t hindered me.
What’s your secret?
No addictions. No smoking. No drinking.
Let’s talk food. What’s your favorite food in the world?
I’m from El Salvador, so pupusas. But I love Mexican food. And also food from different countries. And because of La Cocina, I get to try so many different things, like Venezuelan and Colombian food. I’ll try them and I love them. There's a lot of food! (laughs)
Who makes the best pupusa?
Estrellita’s is really delicious. She used to work here a lot, and now she has a second location, but they’re still great. I see how she cooks them here in La Cocina, and I like seeing how she prepares them.
Which are your favorite ones to order?
The revueltas [mixed] and cheese. They’re very good.
What about Salvadoran restaurants in The Mission?
In the Mission there’s La Santaneca. Their food is very good. I go once or twice a month.
What’s the best thing to get there?
Sopa de res (beef soup) and menudo.
Favorite dessert?
La Luna Cupcakes are very good.
Favorite drink?
Chamomile tea and coffee. One in the morning, one in the afternoon.
What hobbies do you have?
I have my house. I like to take care of my animals. I have two little dogs, Princessa and Muñeca, they’re very cute. And I have two chickens. I entertain myself.
Tacos or burritos?
Tacos.
Favorite taqueria in the Mission?
Las Palmeras. It’s a restaurant but they also serve tacos. I like their carne asada, cabeza (head) and lengua (tongue).
If you can share a meal with anyone, who would it be?
My wife.
Favorite band and favorite song?
Juan Gabriel is iconic. "Querida" is good.
What makes you happy?
Helping. When I see that someone needs help I try to help as much as I can. I feel good. They feel good. I’m happy.
What advice do you have for the people?
Treat people well. Respect people.
Miguel Castro’s recommendations:
- Estrellita’s — 483 Ellis St, San Francisco, CA 94102
- La Santaneca — 2815 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110
- La Luna Cupcakes — 50 Post St., Level 1, Store 10, San Francisco, CA 94104
- Las Palmeras — 2723 Mission St, San Francisco, CA 94110
- La Cocina — various locations
Omar Mamoon is a San Francisco-based freelance writer and cookie dough professional. Follow him on Instagram.
