Welcome to The Industry, a column that explores the backstories of people working in San Francisco’s food and beverage sector. From farmers and purveyors to servers and sommeliers, chefs, chef-de-cuisines, and everyone in between, we take you deep inside the city’s food scene. Next up: Artist Jenny Sharaf.
Earlier this year I attended the MAD Symposium in Copenhagen. Founded by René Redzepi of restaurant Noma, the conference is commonly dubbed “the Davos of food” and brings together all sorts of people from the food world. From chefs to farmers to writers and artists, you never know who you’ll meet. This year, I met San Francisco-based artist Jenny Sharaf.
Though I wasn’t directly familiar with Sharaf, I had encountered her work in restaurants around the world countless times over the years. I’ve spooned caviar potato clouds from her ceramics at The Progress. I’ve eyed her colorful paintings at the fine-dining Californios and admired her installations at Noma. I needed to know more about Sharaf.
The world needs to know more about Sharaf, so I asked her a few questions about herself.
Where did you grow up and what drew you to San Francisco?
I grew up in the Pacific Palisades of Los Angeles, but at this point I have been living in San Francisco for what seems like forever. I moved here in 2008 to finish my undergraduate degree after a stint in Honolulu. My mother grew up in a family of eleven in San Francisco, so I always had strong connections to this place and it felt natural to drop more roots. At that time, the city was very alive and it immediately felt like a place I wanted to stay for a long time. It also helped that pre-tech 2.0 things were much more accessible for young transplants.
How's the art scene here?
Like most things, you get back what you put in. Things here are always evolving. The art scene is changing everywhere in the world, especially as so many galleries announce closures. There are definitely fewer artists here now than there have been in the past. I realize that is a vague non-answer, but that is itself descriptive of the situation.
Do you have some favorite galleries in San Francisco?
If I had to pick two galleries, I’d say Rebecca Camacho Presents and Jessica Silverman.
They always have great exhibitions and really champion their artists.
How would you describe your practice?
I would say my practice is a dedication to process and exploring mark making. I love, love, love paint — as a material and a form of communication. I am constantly painting in my head, if not in the studio. Very influenced by art history, in combination with contemporary culture and fashion.
Which neighborhood do you live in and where are your studios?
I live in Inner Richmond. It’s a wonderful neighborhood and I hope to stay here for a long time. I practice clay with my partner, John Duket, in Sausalito. I also paint in a barn in Bolinas.
Where do you like to eat around your neighborhood and what's your order?
Thai Time: duck larb, Pad Thai with shrimp and soft tofu.
Spices: Mapo tofu, pan fried dumplings.
Cinderella Bakery for borscht and cheesecake
Arsicault’s Kouign-amann.
What about but near your studio?
Sandwich of the day at Fish Sausalito. Half fries, half salad. Arnold Palmer.
Fish Burrito at Hook Fish Co.
Blueberry pancakes at Lighthouse Café
Bran Muffins at the bakery of Coast Cafe in Bolinas — they sell out by 11am usually.
Your art is in so many restaurants in SF and around the world: how did that happen?
The world collapsed. I think this kind of happened by accident. Most of my restaurant presence developed out of conversations and friendships with the people in the food world. Often just the desire to do fun projects together.
Do you see parallels in the art and food world?
I think artists and chefs are both sensitive beings. Both are the type of people to wear their hearts on their sleeves, because they have no other choice. There’s an inherent vulnerability that one must meet in order to make a great painting or an exceptional dish.
Food is definitely art. Chefs are, in my mind, artists. Val [Cantú], at Californios, is a great example of that. He is always thinking visually and conceptually. We have had a fun creative dialogue for a long time. When he asked me to make a series of large site-specific paintings for the new Californios space, I was honored. The interior, which was designed by Carolyn Cantú, is gorgeous and the dramatic lighting really brings the paintings to life in a unique way.
Tell me about the ceramics at The Progress.
Stuart [Brioza] and Nicole [Krasinski] invited me to create a fun dish for the Caviar Cloud dish. We went back and forth on color palettes and landed on a beautiful pastel orange hue, close to the color of a cantaloupe. The whole dish is very experiential for guests. We had collaborated previously on a seder plate for the Jewish Contemporary museum.
Tell me about the art at noma.
In anticipation for the summer season, I made an installation composed of site-responsive paintings, painted ceramics and rocks. Paralleling to the core ethos of noma, the inspiration was to create a conversation with the setting. noma is basically a temple of experience and the art included there is by some of my absolute heroes. For instance, the building is designed by Bjarke Ingels Group, BIG, the interiors are by Studio David Thulstrup and there is a huge sculpture by Olafur Eliasson upon entering. Sharing space with greats like these gave me chills. I showed up at 3:30 a.m. to complete the installation, as the sun came up. It was a moment.
What makes you happy?
Painting. Eating. Traveling. In essence, creating and exploring. The source of joy is not unique.
What advice do you have for the people?
Laugh as much as you can. And, be suspect of anyone giving too much advice.
Jenny Sharaf’s Must List
Thai Time (315 8th Ave.)
Spices (291 6th Ave.)
Cinderella Bakery (436 Balboa St.)
Arsicault (397 Arguello Blvd.)
Fish Sausalito (350 Harbor Dr., Sausalito)
Hook Fish Co. (4542 Irving St.)
Lighthouse Café (1311 Bridgeway, Sausalito)
Coast Cafe (46 Wharf Rd., Bolinas)
Rebecca Camacho Presents (526 Washington St.)
Jessica Silverman (621 Grant Ave.)
