The martini is the libation of the century. One martini can make the disheveled feel civilized, Hemingway once noted; Dorothy Parker liked them “two at the very most” lest she have four and end up under her host. Now, it’s a prop that communicates “quiet luxury” on an Instagram story, a way for interns and new graduates to convey their worldliness. Nevertheless, the martini’s appeal persists; whether naked, dirty, wet, or dressed in the trend-du-jour (RIP, Bacontini), every year, it somehow only falls further into style.
In San Francisco, the espresso martini has reigned among certain blue jean and leather jacket-wearing crowds — so much so that Marina outpost Balboa Cafe has special queues to sling these yassified Four Lokos exclusively.
Now, to the list of highly potable (and ‘grammable) martinis comes the Tomatini, a drink quickly usurping the Aperol Spritz as the epitome of Euro-fetishism and the perfect drink for Tomato Girl Summer.
Savory and simple, the Tomatini channels the sun-drenched saltiness of an Italian summer, save for the card-playing anzianos. It’s made with a base of tomato water, vodka or gin, and vermouth. It is delightful as is, but poised for augmentation by a creative bartender. And considering San Francisco’s proximity to the tomato belt, there are few better places in the world than here to drink one.
“The produce here is so good that we don't have to do much to it,” said William Tsui, owner of Oakland cocktail bar Viridian. Tsui dreamt up Viridian’s signature drink, the Tomato Beef, to honor the tomato’s subtle art.
“Imagine biting into a tomato but not eating it,” said Tsui. “It's the purest, most elegant essence of a tomato.”
Tsui’s Tomato Beef is not quite a Tomatini, though the tomato water is still the star of the show. The Tomato Beef is made with housemade tomato water, blanco tequila, Basil Eau de Vie, Shio Koji (Japanese fermented seasoning), and a citric acid of sorts. In peak season, regional favorites such as Early Girls are used for the tomato water. Since Viridian has a kitchen, Tsui says they are able to repurpose any excess tomato slices and parts for the tomato water, ensuring not an ounce of the precious produce goes to waste.
Chris Beyer, founder of the Treasure Island-made vermouth company Veso, takes a different approach to the Tomatini. Veso specializes in savory vermouths, among them a beloved tomato vermouth.
“I was drinking some dirty martinis and realized that they could be made a lot better,” said Beyer, “and that kind of sent me down this savory vermouth spiral.”
He’s not the only one spiraling (in a good way). Recent data reveals growing interest in savory cocktails: The Bacardi Brand Ambassador Survey found a 20% increase in demand for savory flavors and a 15% increase in demand for herbal ones. Cocktails accounted for 35% of total spirits value in the US on-premise sector in 2024, a six-point increase from the previous year, according to data from intelligence firm CGA by NIQ. Gen Z and millennials are leading the shift.
“Everyone thought that we were crazy for putting tomatoes in vermouth,” Beyer said. Then, the internet took to the tomatini; it was “perfect timing all around.”
The tomato performs so well in a martini and other cocktails thanks to its glutamates, a kind of amino acid that lends some umami goodness. Glutamates also help harmonize salty and sour tastes, making the tomato excellent company among a range of spirits.
“There's just so much more depth in those cocktails,” said Beyer. “If you have sweet, salty, bitter, and savory, you're hitting four different types of tastes. And then naturally, all of our vermouths have sour, and they have natural acidity through the wine. So technically, we're hitting all five taste components.” He calls Tomatinis “a full texture experience in your mouth.”
Unlike the 15-ingredient cocktails of yesteryear, drinkers seem to be seeking more simplicity. “People are going to continue to have a lot of fun with the martini and with these savory, simpler cocktails,” Beyer said. “You can get so specific about highlighting a single ingredient in cocktails and I think people appreciate that.”
