To eat like a king once upon a time meant lavish feasts, totally hedonistic alcohol consumption, and, eventually, gout. To eat like the most powerful people in the country in 2026 means traveling with sauerkraut in your purse, abstaining from decadence, and, eventually, a perpetual assault of sulfurous flatulence.
A recent Wall Street Journal story outlined the fermented food obsession making its rounds through the executive branch, thanks to the influence of Dr. Sean O’Mara, a Washington, D.C.-based private physician who treats red-faced politicos. Vice President JD Vance, Health Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr., Commerce Secretary Howard Lutnick, and Transportation Secretary Sean Duffy have been religiously consuming sauerkraut to lose a few and make their skin glow. (President Donald Trump doesn’t appear to be interested.)
Naturally, Mr. MAHA himself was the first to jump on Dr. O’Mara’s diet, which consists of lots of sauerkraut, grass-fed steak, and no alcohol or sugary foods. RFK Jr. claimed recently that it helped him shed 20 pounds in 30 days. (Totally!) Kennedy now allegedly travels with a stash of sauerkraut too big for his wife Cheryl Hines’s purse. Lutnick now apparently ferments his own veggies.
Cabbage is so in right now, and not just within our far-right political milieu. Everybody’s talking about it: Pinterest predicted a big “cabbage crush” in 2026. Vogue is saying the leafy cruciferous is “chic.” The New York Times called it the veggie of the year. Business Insider says our obsession with the humble, cheap produce could be a recession indicator. Country Living said it’s a great way to stretch your grocery dollars. The Independent says it aligns with “modern nutritional preoccupations,” like fiber, gut health, and volume eating. Needless to say, once what’s hot makes it to the crusty old dudes in charge, it has achieved maximum ubiquity. You can’t swing a wooden spoon without hitting a kimchi-obsessed recipe creator. We’re at peak cabbage.
Gazetteer SF spoke to some local fermenters about the nationwide hype. They were not concerned with any politicization of fermented foods, in the way that, say, raw milk has become a contentious subject, and believe everyone should explore adding them to their diet.
“I'm really excited to see the popularity grow,” said Chris Frost-McKee, the owner of Local Culture Ferments. McKee is based in Grass Valley and sells his krauts in San Francisco and around the country. He noted that fermented foods have been staples of cuisines across Europe and Asia for centuries.
“It was a necessity to ferment not thousands of years ago, but even a hundred years ago before the wide use of refrigeration. This is the way our great-grandparents ate. It's how they had to eat,” he said. “So I see it as a rediscovery or a reawakening of our roots.”
Fermented vegetables such as sauerkraut and kimchi, as well as yogurt and kefir, are probiotics because they contain live beneficial bacteria that add to the healthy mini-civilization of bacteria in your intestines. There are also foods including bananas and cabbage that are “prebiotic,” which contain dietary fiber and complex carbs that act as fuel for the beneficial bacteria. Together, these pro- and prebiotics aid digestion, lower inflammation, and help the body retain more nutrients.
Sauerkraut and baechu-kimchi, being fermented cabbage, contains both pro- and prebiotics as well as fiber, making it a digestion superfood. While our attention to these bacteria are new, the technology is as old as time.
Kate Goodell, the store manager of Preserved in Oakland, says that interest in fermented foods has been rising for a decade — Preserved’s gradual upsizing from tiny shack to large storefront and workshop space, case in point. Preserved sells a range of preserved (yes) and pantry goods, from misos, krauts, and kimchis to jams and tinned fish. In addition to preserved veggies, Goodell says the Preserved team has seen a rise in kefir interest.
“The desire from customers was outgrowing our little shop. So honestly, I think that says a lot about the gaining momentum of the fermentation movement,” she says.
Similar to fibermaxxing, krautmaxxing is rooted in a legitimate pursuit to replenish the body with nutrients that have been processed out of the American diet. However, some stomachs will need to work up to consuming it with every meal — too much too soon can cause gas, bloating, and other unsavory gastrointestinal sensations. (The Journal piece described this as "sulfurous odors” that have caused some “friction at home.”) Additionally, pre- and probiotic foods are not a one-size-fits-all approach to a happier stomach, as they can exacerbate gastrointestinal conditions, including IBS.
We are a nation of hurt tummies, after all. The American Gastrointestinal Association estimates that some 60 to 70 million Americans suffer from GI issues that can create major disruptions to daily life.
“People are really experiencing the increase in colorectal disease as well as food sensitivities and intolerances,” said Goodell. “Customers are excited to find us so that they can start making [sauerkraut] themselves, or are looking for a resource to find locally made fermented foods.”
To what extent sauerkraut will shave inches off your waist or make you glow like Lutkin will differ from person to person. However, one thing is for certain: Fermented foods are reclaiming permanent space in peoples’ pantries.
“This isn't a new fad to get good probiotics, better prebiotics, and more fibers in us. This is how people ate when they were truly healthy,” said Local Culture’s Frost-McKee.
